On Dec 14, 2013, I set out to circumvent Crater Lake on snowshoes. I had done this previously in 3 days/2 nights and knew it could be done much faster. The key to faster is of course going lighter. My goal for this new attempt was to do it nonstop in less than 24h.
In order to get a backcountry permit, I had to tell the rangers that I was going to be out for 2-3 days with a tent, sleeping bag and whatnot. I had no intention to carry any of that.
I headed out with a light backpack that had the food for about 36h, just in case I had to spend the night. I also carried the necessary emergency gear, such as an emergency bivy. Conditions were supposed to be great, but it’s a long way and many things can happen. And of course there is no easy bailout route once you are on the other side of the lake. Going back could be exactly as long and painful as going forward.
The movie clip below documents the adventure. I carried a GPS, but did not have it log the track continuously. I did not carry a SPOT transponder because I had none at that point.
I finished the 30mi in 20h. I only stopped to melt snow. That was quite time-consuming, but carrying more water may have slowed me down as well. It’s a fine line.
I dropped the permit off at the ranger station shortly before 7am and sent them an e-mail once I got back home. Of course they thought I had given up and returned after spending one night out there. They were very surprised to learn that I had made it around the entire lake in 20h throughout the night. According to them, it is the fastest known time (FKT) for a snowshoeing trip.
I did not see a single person on the adventure except at the very beginning on the rim.
Tips and tricks:
- It’s easier to stay warm than to warm up.
- Stay hydrated and properly fueled. Do not fall behind. Know how many calories you need, pack accordingly, and eat frequently.
- Address hot spots in shoes immediately. They will only get worse otherwise.
- Keep moving, focus on relentless forward progress.
- Do not drive home for 5h after staying up all night.
- Use lighter poles.
- Know how to take care of yourself.
- Have an emergency/bailout plan. Cell phones do not work.
- Carry the right gear and have the right skills. Never use gear you haven’t used before.
- Avoid single points of failure. E.g., if your stove fails, you can’t melt water anymore. Without proper hydration, it will be difficult to complete such an adventure.
- Conditions can be dramatically different around the lake. The snow pack can be very different.
- The hardest part is the second half. In fact, when you think you are half around the lake, you have by far not done half the mileage.
- There is very few wildlife in the winter, so nothing to worry about.
- Breaking trail can be extremely tiresome and energy-consuming. Be ready for significantly more snow at higher elevations on the south-east and south side of the lake.
- There are a few avalanche zones. Assess carefully and use a bypass if necessary. The ranger will give you maps.
- Carry a map even if you think you know the route. I recommend a GPS too. The first time I got briefly lost at night. The road is not always obvious in the winter, especially higher up on the plains. I was happy to have a GPS track saved that led me back on track.
- Crater Lake is known for extreme temperatures. Be ready for extremely cold (and starry) nights.
- Don’t do this at home. You need to be in great physical and mental shape.
I don’t think I was particularly fast, so there is definitely room for improvement. Overall, this was a great adventure, however!