Reliving the 1000mi Iditarod Trail Invitational – Day 12

Today I would hopefully make it to the Ruby halfway checkpoint at mile 500ish. When you sleep outside and can’t dry anything, your gear gets gradually icier. I sleep in a vapor barrier liner (basically an expensive plastic bag) inside my sleeping bag to prevent body moisture from getting into the sleeping bag. In a few days, it would otherwise become a useless frozen chunk. Shoes and everything else you don’t want frozen must be kept warm in your sleeping bag.

Trail conditions varied between barely acceptable to terrible. The wind persisted. Yet, the worst part were the never-ending gradual climbs over hills that seemed small, but then turned out to be monsters. The longest gradual climb I remember was 15mi long, with many false summits on the way. If you think the trail is flat once you crossed the Alaska range, think again. On the stretch from McGrath to Ruby I logged 190mi with 9,759ft (2’975m) of cumulative elevation gain. That’s 6.5x the climb over Rainy Pass from Puntilla Lake. Let’s just say that it was no cakewalk with a heavy sled in soft snow.

As darkness fell, the northern lights made a showing again. To fight sleep deprivation, I sang for several hours in English, French, German, and Swiss German. That made things more interesting and challenged my fried brain. Thankfully nobody heard me. At 2am I reached what my GPS said was the checkpoint, a B&B. It was clearly not. After 1h of searching and several useless directions from locals who were still up (doing what?!), I finally found the right place. I knocked and yelled, but nobody opened the door. I’m not used to enter stranger’s houses at 3am, but eventually I did, found a bed, and passed out.

In the morning, I was served a salad and piles of meat (my late dinner), and a little later a fabulous breakfast too. I ate it all. French skier Mathieu emerged and I learned that he would not continue to Nome. Aw! I was hoping for more rest, but the B&B was buzzing. I loaded my sled with new supplies that I had mailed to the checkpoint and readied myself for the next section.

Another hill, then another one, then some more…

The mushers leave straw that makes for good sleeping spots. At least if you don’t mind sleeping in dog pee.

My feed bottle. I make my dehydrated meals in it and eat while walking so that I don’t get cold.

That’s the moon in the middle. The northern lights can be seen faintly only because it was too bright. Notice the state of the trail. Not fun.

The things you see at night.And yes, that was very soft snow.

6am view from my bed. I got 3h of sleep only.

A salad and piles of meat for breakfast. This was supposed to be my dinner, which they had kindly left out for me, but I didn’t see it at 3am.

That was the real breakfast.

I look tired. I wonder why. That bowl of meat was for me. Photo by MB.

#iti2022 #iditarodtrailinvitational #ultrarunning #nome #alaska

Reliving the 1000mi Iditarod Trail Invitational – Day 11

The daily grind continued. A strong wind was blowing right into my face, so I decided to get out my ruff. It’s amazing how the fur breaks the wind around the face and keeps it warm.

After a few hours of tough moving with terrible trail conditions, I reached the Iditarod Cripple checkpoint just past 8am. Cripple, current population of 0, is an old mining district. During the Gold Rush (1908-1925), $35 million in gold, including some of the largest nuggets ever mined, were taken from the area. The first musher who makes it to Cripple receives a trophy and $3,000 in gold nuggets. I only got breakfast, but that was unexpected and better than gold. The Iditarod folks let me hang out in a warm tent, where I quickly loaded the resupplies of my 3rd dropbag as well as stove fuel for the remaining 535ish miles.

It was hard to believe that I hadn’t even reached the halfway point yet. I tried to focus on Ruby, the next checkpoint, which was still about 70mi away. Yet, the current trail conditions made that thought difficult. The wind had covered the trail almost entirely with a foot of fresh snow. Just as I was about to leave, a group of six snowmachines pulled into the checkpoint and then continued on. Yay, I hoped that would improve the trail’s state. It did for an hour or so, then the snow was all blown in again and filled the trail with fresh snow.

I stopped for a lunch and snow melting break in the middle of the day, when the temperature reached a high point. While I melted snow and refilled my thermos bottles, I ate a dehydrated meal. Eating and drinking enough can be very challenging in these conditions. Yet, if you are not on top of your calories and fluid intakes, things won’t go well. A calories deficit accumulated over days is very hard to fix. According to my spreadsheet, I had just over 7,000 calories packed per day. On most days, I did indeed eat that much.

The day ended with a nice sunset, the northern lights in full swing, and another bivy. Seeing the musher’s headlamps silently floating by all night was rather magical.

It’s amazing how the fur breaks the wind around the face and keeps it warm.

The Cripple Iditarod checkpoint. Cripple, current population of 0, is an old mining district. During the Gold Rush (1908-1925), $35 million in gold, including some of the largest nuggets ever mined, were taken from the area. The first musher who makes it to Cripple receives a trophy and $3,000 in gold nuggets.

I only got breakfast, but that was unexpected and better than gold.

A runner and Iditarod volunteer, who had just just competed her first winter trace (the Susnita 100), handed me a 2nd breakfast. Thanks!

I must eat calories! I ate a lot of nuts, cheese, and chocolate.

A lunch and snow melting break in the middle of the day, when the temperature reached a high point. It takes time and fuel to melt snow for about 1 gallon of water.

The wind had covered the trail almost entirely with a foot of fresh snow. I had to wear snowshoes all day and the going was very slow and tough.

Another sunset…

Another display of the northern lights. After a while, you’ve seen it.

#iti2022 #iditarodtrailinvitational #ultrarunning #nome #alaska