Reliving the 1000mi Iditarod Trail Invitational – Day 20

It can be surprisingly difficult to find the right trail out of towns. Markers are often missing, and there can be countless snowmachine tracks that lead in any direction. I was excited, but also worried about the ~50mi sea ice crossing on the Norton Bay to Koyuk. Once again, wind is supposed to be the most challenging element on that stretch. Any wind below 30mi/h is rare. Ground blizzards with zero visibility are frequent, and it’s very easy to lose the trail and get disoriented. The crossing is flat, exposed, and dangerous. I loved the wide-open space. The wind was brutal all day, but manageable. I think I got relatively lucky.

From miles away you can see a small peninsula in the Norton Bay, where the Little Mountain cabin is located. I was excited to take a break there. For several hours, the cabin didn’t seem to get any closer. When I was perhaps half a mile away, I saw two skiers emerge. First I wasn’t sure if this was some sort of hallucination. But they turned out to be real. I learned that Timm and Luc were skiing from Koyuk to Unalakleet and that they brought ice skates for the icy sections. Smart! Read about their trip and check out the cool video at https://thingstolucat.com/2022/03/30/koyuk-to-unalakleet

I had a quick warm lunch in the cabin and readied myself for the remaining 35mi long ice crossing, where stopping and eating and drinking may be hard. No matter what face mask you are wearing, it will ice up sooner or later. It then becomes difficult to adjust and can be hard to remove, especially if it freezes to your facial hair or clothing. Another challenge is avoiding ice in your goggles. Taking them off, breathing accidentally into them, or steam from your hot drink can lead to an instant ice layer that is very hard to remove. Without functioning goggles, you cannot move in strong winds and bad conditions. Rookies: do not skimp on goggles, it’s a critical piece of gear.

It was midnight when I reached Koyuk. I saw the lights for hours, and kept thinking I’d be there in 15min. I was not. Until I finally was.

No end in sight.

That little black spot at the horizon is the small peninsula with the Little Mountain cabin. And if you think you’ll be there pretty soon, think again.

The Little Mountain cabin. One of the best cabin spots I have ever seen. There is zero wood in and around the cabin, so you can’t make a fire.

Luc took this pic of me and sent it to me after the race. Thanks! Read more about his and Timm’s adventure at https://thingstolucat.com/2022/03/30/koyuk-to-unalakleet

Cabin with a view.

Mucus stalactites.

No face mask will stay ice-free.

Ice will build up on the inside and outside. The mask will gradually become a like an icy cast. I carried three face masks so that I could get through a day or more.

Sometimes there are huge rifts in the sea ice.

Yet another sunset. The wind and the cold makes it less romantic in reality than it looks in the photo.

#iti2022 #iditarodtrailinvitational #ultrarunning #nome #alaska

Reliving the 1000mi Iditarod Trail Invitational – Day 19

I ate my first pizza slice for breakfast on the trail. The rest I saved for a lunch break. We’ll get to that. The primary concern on the leg to Shaktoolik is wind, which often reaches hurricane force. Combined with deep sub-zero temps, that can lead to wind chill factors lower than -70F.

The first 25mi cross a mix of woods, taiga, open areas, and exposed ridge tops. Besboro Island far away in the Norton Sound looked surreal, and so did the sea ice. There were over 1,000ft of climbing through the Blueberry Hills on the first 20mi. I reached the Foothill cabin rather exhausted, in time for lunch. Two locals on an ATV stopped. They insisted on shaking my hand. When they saw my pizza, they both laughed and said “frozen pizza, eh?” I did not laugh. Once they left, I ate my frozen pizza. I was cold when I left. What was I thinking?

The trail descended from the hills to the Norton Sound beach. The next 12mi to Shaktoolik are known to be extremely difficult because of the wind. And indeed they were. One is completely unprotected in the open, barren coastline. As soon as I reached the beach, the wind got so strong that I could barely walk. My sled got blown over several times. I had to be completely bundled up, with zero skin exposed. It was the most challenging 12mi I ever did. You can’t stop or give up because there is nowhere to go. Drinking and eating become a real challenge.

It was getting dark when I finally reached Shaktoolik, exhausted and beaten up by the wind. I asked a local where the school was. He said he’d walk me there. One the way he told me that he had just participated in the rescue of the last standing skier in the race, who had suffered frostbite on his hand. Gosh! At the school, I was welcomed by the said skier, his arm heavily bandaged, and two ITI bikers. Troy and Jason spent more than a day of their race coordinating the rescue and assisting with the skier’s evacuation on a bush plane to Anchorage the next day. What an amazing sportsmanship!

No skier has ever completed the Iditarod Trail Invitational 1000 to Nome (although some others did in other contexts), and no one would this year. What a bummer!

I ate my first slice of pizza for breakfast on the trail. It was not frozen.

Magic view of Besboro Island and the sea ice in the Norton Sound.

The Foothill cabin served as a great lunch shelter.

All my remaining pizza was of course rock solid frozen by lunch time. What was I thinking?

The 12mi to Shaktoolik are known to be extremely difficult because of the wind. One is completely unprotected in the open, barren coastline.

The sea ice piling up on the (snow) beach.

The “beach” with the sea ice.

Bundled up with zero skin exposed. It’s challenging to eat and drink in these conditions.

Aerial view of Shaktoolik. Two rows of houses and a single road on a tiny stretch of land. The town is completely exposed and hammered by the worst winds. Photo stolen from https://iditarod.com/zuma/virtual-trail-journey-shaktoolik. Photo credit: Terrie Hanke.

In these conditions, there is no room for mistakes.

#iti2022 #iditarodtrailinvitational #ultrarunning #nome #alaska